TRANS ALBA RACE

A single-stage self-supported ultra-distance cycle race covering 1,720 km with 22,000m of ascent.

Location: Scotland Goal: Completion

Preparation began the previous autumn, in 2018. Competing in The Trans Atlantic Way Race in Ireland earlier that year had been spectacular and rewarding. In a little over 8 days I covered 2,250km with 20,000m of climbing which provided invaluable experience. TALBARONE was attractive due to its convenience, the length of the ride and the climate – reports of the oppressive debilitating heat in continental Europe meant the TCR07 didn’t appeal…

Strategy

Learning from previous ultras I knew that a degree of forward planning would be rewarded. Physically you can be prepared, but it’s difficut to predict conditions and these can have a significant impact on your mental state and the motivation to continue riding. Sleep management is crucial. You can manage on 4 hours and the best quality is to try to get sleep near your normal sleeping time. Having ridden 600km with a single nap I considered riding through the second day, but decided against this. On the basis of my performance in Ireland I decided to achieve 270km each day, stopping and sleeping by midnight and leaving early each morning. This plan produced a 6 day schedule.

Registration Leith – 15:00 Sunday 30 06 19

Arriving for registration in Leith it was immediately clear that the organisation by TransAm finisher Chris Greenan, media director Jack Driver and their colleagues was well-planned and super-slick. Some, a few, of the riders are racing, Steve and Nicky, most are riding. The food and drink is a thoughtful touch, as was the tight schedule ensuring that the riders get away promptly to make final preparations for the start.

Leg 1 – Cramond to Granton-on-Spey - 297km 3800m eta +16.5hrs

09:00 - Following a group selfie Chris led the 39 starters along the neutralised section through the quiet closed roads of the Dalmeny estate. The flag dropped north of the Forth Bridge and we were racing…The undulating roads and crosswind leading to Kinross in Fife soon had the field spread. The media team were there to mark our progress, the day was fine and now, with a tailwind, we headed east…

Glenlomond; Gospetry Farm; Crash – 1hr 30mins @32km

The widely spaced turns of the eTrex meant that interpreting the route was tricky. Off route, riding gravel cycle tracks and passing through farm yards, across the hedges I could see other riders licking smooth black-top. Crossing a metal grid the front wheel slid away and I hit grit. My hands were bruised and my legs scraped, then I realised there was a dripping gash to the tip of my left middle finger. A latex glove staunched the flow of blood… luckily, the bike appeared to be undamaged. Some time later, shaken, I cautiously set off to rejoin the route and was immediately joined by Claire - her compassion and company for the next few klicks was so welcome.

and many more diversions would follow…

St Andrews – 4hrs 30mins @97km

Lunch stop on the busy main street and I almost left without the full bidon. Riders were now spread – no one in sight and I rode alone towards the Tay Bridge. The media crew waved me onto the crossing to alma mater Dundee – another milestone and the gateway to the tough section that lay ahead. The eTrex misled me and leaving the city crossing cobbles and forced into unnecessary climbing I regained the route.

Alyth Angus – 9hrs 30mins @167km

Flat soft fruit growing country, the sweet smell of strawberries being picked, making good progress towards the first big challenge crossing the Cairngorms. The friendly pub, offering a filling evening meal, was irresistable and afforded an hours rest.

Cairngorms: Braemar – 14hrs @225km

The next section is defined by the successiion of climbs: 1350m in 70km; that’s almost 20m/km. – The Cairnwell; Crathie; The Lecht: Brig o’ Brown. The Cairnwell is a long 8km grind to almost 700m, it doesn’t sound much, averaging only 4%, yet over the last 3km kicks up to 10%. It’s also been improved for the ski buses and stretches uncompromisingly away in front of you.

I caught and passed a couple of other riders, it also started to rain, not so good but expected. Before the long descent to Braemar they peeled off to sleep using the shelter of the ski centre buildings. The incandescent lights of Braemar came and then fell away behind, as the wet road followed the river Dee through ancient dripping forest, sheltered from the wind. Like coffee the night was thick and black, with little traffic. The rain had set in fully and somewhere near Crathie, in the eerie darkness I finally stopped to put on my jacket and take a snack. The road led ahead until the first steep wall of the Lecht reared up and away into the mist, rain and wind…

Lecht – 16hrs @257km

4km at 6%; max 20%. You hit the hairpins and the legs and lungs know it… I dismounted and walked a short way. Remounting to grind past the snow poles, now feeling the cold and wind. Wet faced, passing an unrecognised summit at 650m, somewhere in the mist. The only sign of passing is that I’m descending.

image Lecht. Photo Doik, flickr CC

Tomintoul – 17hrs 15mins @275km

It’s 2:15 in the morning. The village is empty and quiet, no one is about. It’s still raining. Off the mountain the wind is lighter but I’m no warmer. I have another 22km to ride, with a couple of stiff climbs, to reach the hotel in Granton-on-Spey, where I should have arrived an hour ago; another hour of riding… it will take two hours longer than my estimate. It’s proving tough, and slower than expected.

Granton on Spey – 18hrs 15mins @297km 3,800m 16.3kph

Standing outside in the rain the hotel looks shut. I check the phone and there are three texts asking for my eta. Knocking on the door there is finally some movement and I’m welcomed in, out of the rain. There are two riders here - a hot shower and I drop into bed at 4am., 19 hours after leaving Edinburgh.

Leg 2 – Granton-on-Spey to Durness

It’s 07:00, still day 1. David and Asbjorn, caps 18 and 19 roll up. Turns out they stopped the night in Tomintoul. They’re much faster and my morale gets a boost. I ride out of town the wrong way tricked by the Garmin once again and see Jane and Magnus, 23 and 22. They turn in the opposite direction, I follow and we chat at the Coop. It’s 8:30 and I’m now 4hrs behind schedule and I doubt I can reach Durness until the early hours of the following morning. Heading northwest a stiff headwind nags as I cross unspoilt bleak moorland and descend into woods towards the coast. Jane and Magnus pass me as I stop to make arrangements for the night – we cross wheels again briefly in Inverness at lunchtime and that will be the last I see of them.

West along the Beauly Firth the unfettered headwind sucks the speed out of tired legs, there’s nowhere to hide, but the rain holds off. In the evening Chris and Jack catch up with me near the top of Struie for a crack and some pictures. I’m sure that I’ve been passed by Team Kinesis; Rupert and Cav, last seen yo-yoing with me on the way into Inverness. “They’ve stopped in Alness and are behind…”

Later, through Lairg, they catch me and we yo-yo northwards overlooked by Ben Kilbreck. At the isolated Crask Inn they peel off while I continue to the evening meal arranged with the B&B in Altnaharra. It’s 22:30 and in 14hrs I’ve ridden only 212km.. Over dinner I’m consoled by the company I’m in. A cancellation means that there’s a room rendering the prospect of a 3 hour nightride to the hostel in Durness unappealing. Adrian, cap 15, is already asleep in the caravan, although I’m told that he’s packing out to Lairg in the morning with a knee injury.

14hrs212km 1795m 15.1kph

Altnaharra – 1 day 13hrs 30mins @509km 5,595m

Team Kinesis – Rupert in front and Cav

Leg 3 – Altnaharra to Ullapool

Host Mandy couldn’t have been more helpful and arranged breakfast for 6am. I rode away from Altnaharra at 7. The wind was still blocking although it wasn’t raining… yet. After crossing the bleak moorland in solitude I arrived in Tongue as folk were just getting their day started, yet there is no respite after the turn west along the coast. This road is brutal at any time, with an arduous climb out of Tongue, but the headwind makes progress even more difficult and slow, methodically turning the cranks crouched across the tt bars.

Riding north again, enjoying a strong tailwind, I stopped for breakfast on the west side of Loch Eriboll. The sandy unspoilt beaches are stunning and I arrive in Durness at mid-day; a full half-day behind schedule. Another significant milestone – reaching the west coast. ‘On schedule’ should have seen me arriving in Kinlochewe later that day, given the conditions this would only be possible by riding through the night. When I left Altnaharra that morning I had half-heartedly settled on Ullapool as the target; this was now the most viable option. Comfortable that I was sandwiched between two pairs and with no prospect of improving my solo position, this wasn’t at all a poor situation – everyone seemed to be suffering.

The kilometres passed by on that hard road south through Scourie and its welcome café. Riding the NCC600 in June had prepared me well for this. Then avoiding the A-road climb over Quirang I turned onto the ‘hilliest road in Britain’ [sic]. dave barter, with its snappy 25% ramps; round the loop to Lochinver. The famous pie shop was beckoning and I sent the downhills narrowly avoiding NC500 motorhomes blocking the single-track. I don’t make it…Rolling through Lochinver at 7pm was disappointing until I saw David and Asbjorn ahead of me making for the fish market, looking for food they passed by the turn. Now traffic free, the snaking road wound its way steeply along the coast to finally reach the main road near Ardmair and the last couple of ramps. I spun into Ullapool at 10pm looking for a B&B.

After a pint and a shower I catch up with Sandra dot-watching. Jane and Magnus are ahead, Cav and Rupert and Dave and Asbjorn behind.

15hrs 209km 3200m 13.9kph

Ullapool – 2 days 13hrs @699km 8,795m

Leg 4 – Ullapool to Shieldaig

Setting out after breakfast at 7:30am I have no real idea of where I’ll stop. I head southeast along the main road enjoying the strong wind on my back for the next 20k, nothing has really changed, the wind blocks progress to the west and it rains on and off, sometimes persistently. Crossing the one major climb, out of the wind shadow, I fight doggedly along the coast for 60km to Gairloch. The turn southeast is bliss, bowling along Loch Maree in the strong tailwind at 35kph towards Kinlochewe, a break and tea. It is 3pm, rain threatening and I begin to consider my options. Help from the café staff result in a B&B sorted in Shieldaig and I reluctantly set off along Glen Torridon into the lashing rain and headwind. Beinn Eighe and Liathach, the impressive Torridonian giants, are hidden in the swirling cloud. After the hard wet hard ride, I’m so pleased to arrive at 6:30pm. The reception is amazing, the accomodation clean and comfortable, I am generously offered an evening meal and the wet gear is laid out to dry on the AGA.

11hrs 148km 2000m 13.5kph

Shieldaig 3 days 9hrs 30 mins @847km 10,795m

Leg 5 - Shieldaig to Glenborrodale

Some time around 6am I am surprised when I catch Asbjorn and David packing kit by the roadside. They are near the top of a climb. It looks like they spent the night here but reveal that they were trying to sleep at the bunkhouse in Kinlochewe with Cav and Rupert. The relentless snoring and stuffiness forced them onto the road and they’ve been riding for 4 hours. The unexpectedly cold conditions forced them to into buying extra base layers in Ullapool. I leave them to it and shortly Asbjorn catches me and we chat over breakfast. David’s knee is painful and he just can’t continue climbing – he’s packing. Asbjorn wishes me well and disappears along the coast towards Applecross. I’m climbing over the Bealach n’a Ba at 7am; no traffic, no rain.

I’m too early for a café stop in Lochcarron and continue to the main road. Rather than being fast this is lumpy, rough and unforgiving. I finally reach the Coop in time for lunch – 6 hours riding. Crossing over the Skye Bridge is something of a milestone and I’m racing to reach the ferry at 13:45. Sandra reported that there are five other riders waiting, Could I make it onto Mull today…

I’m twenty minutes late. The low spring tides mean that the dock is untenable, the next is after 4pm; so I have a meal and sit inside the ferry terminal watching the relentless rain hammer down. I’ll lose over three hours on the group I was catching. I don’t sleep very much. Leaving Mallaig at 5pm.seems like the start of the day again, with the goal of getting close enough to catch the first ferry across to Mull in the morning I ring the bunkhouse with an eta.; as I planned to be here yesterday evening I’m going to be 24 hours late! They have a room and this is fine and I relax.

Soaked and getting cold, the headwind drives the rain. Everything is wet, and after 12 hours riding I’ve had enough. I have to continue until I’m comfortable I can make the 8am ferry from Kilchoan. Passing the hotel at Glenuig the warming lights are welcoming and it’s oh so tempting to stop. At times like this searching for the mental strength to continue is hard. I become an automaton, churning the cranks, losing myself, thinking about something else. I must get further up the road…

Finally I’m spinning along the leafy single-track lane of south Ardnamurchan sheltered from the wind, the canopy dripping onto the wet road. I arrive at dusk, shower and demolish two breakfasts from the freezer.

16 hours 230km 3856m 14.4kph

Glenborrodale 4 days 12 hrs @1077km 14,651m

Leg 6 - Glenborrodale to Biggar

At last it’s a fine morning. With plenty of time the ride to Kilchoan is leisurely and I arrive an hour before the ferry departs. The ferry crossings string seamlessly together and I arrive in Oban for lunch in the sunshine outside the LIDL bakery. The back road to Taynuilt is CLOSED for top dressing. I ride through and start the descent. Suddenly a fully laden eight wheeler comes barreling round a right-hand bend, brakes hard and swerves to avoid me – on the closed road the driver’s clearly not expecting any traffic.

Circumnavigating Loch Awe takes most of the afternoon, punctuated by a chicken curry followed by cranachan, before rejoining the main road to Inverary. Its quiet although the surface on the climb up to Rest and be Thankful is horribly rough. I follow the main road into Arrochar and a welcome pint at The Village Inn. Joining wide roads the high security fences of Faslane pass and in front of me a couple of guys are fighting in the road. As they’re outside an open pub another pint is merited and I drink slowly soaking up the warmth. “You can stay ‘til I close…”

©The Village Inn

It’s a cold night and I had been thinking earlier about the 24hr McDonalds in Dumbarton. When I arrive there I’m cold and tired and any sense has left me; I sleep for an hour in a bus shelter. “Are you OK?” I’m woken by a friendly police officer. It must be about 2am. After a curry, which I can’t finish, I set off towards Clydebank and turning a corner McDonalds is right ahead of me! At 3am I choose to follow the A82, rather than the cyclepath, as it’s completely deserted. By 6am I reach Drymen and the sun’s just coming up. I’ve been on the go for over twenty-four hours so another half-hour in a bus shelter seems appropriate. Riding through Aberfoyle a guest is enjoying breakfast in the window of a B&B, I stop and ask about a breakfast. It’s great to stop and eat and I’m looked after. The meal is good and there’s plenty. “Will £5 be OK?” I’m asked… “You have a climb ahead.” I check-in and Sandra tells me that in the night I’ve passed Cav and Rupert (again) and Jane and Magnus are close. I’m not threatened by any solo rider.

A 5km climb maxing out at 11%, Dukes Pass isn’t too bad at all. In fact it's enjoyable.

Riding east now towards Callander along tree lined lochsides then turning south the scenery changes to open farmland. As I head towards the lowlands there are more bikers about. The Campsie fells lie across the route south and The Crow Road climbs steadily from Fintry for 8km to the summit. “Are you racing TransAlba?” I turn and a smiling club rider draws alongside slowing to effortlessly match my pace. “Are you finishing today?” Maxing out at 19% the descent to Lennoxtown is a blast.

The wide open expanse of the high moor is left behind for the built up areas threading through to Coatbridge and Airdrie skirting the east side of Glasgow. The navigation is not always straightforward and Cav and Rupert come past me. Separately we both stop to eat in Airdrie, then waiting at a junction they catch me. We stop and chat and they have oil for my chain. As they set off towards Biggar I can’t match their pace and feel that it’s the last I’ll see of them.

I’m riding more and more slowly, each short ramp is really hard. After each short break my legs hurt, they really hurt. After relaxing my cadence turning the cranks again is painful. The bike isn’t rolling and in the hilly section approaching Biggar I pull over for a break and check the bike. The rear brake is rubbing on the rim… Re-adjust and it’s like a different bike. I ponder how long its been like that, but don’t dwell on this for too long. In Biggar I stop for a meal, it’s around 7pm and I’ve been on the go for 38 hours. With 185km still to ride through the Borders I decide to stop and have a decent rest. “Where have you come from today?” the bartender asks. “Ardnamurchan.”

38 hrs 432km 5925m 11.4kph

Biggar 6 days 10 hours @1509km 20,576m

FINAL Leg 7 – Biggar to The Scottish Parliament, Edinburgh

Over stone walls green fields populated by cattle and sheep pass by. The smooth road undulates and the wind presses me forward. Progress is fast and fun.The twelve hour rest was a luxury and necessity and I feel refreshed and energised. I also know that I’ll finish today.

There is only one serious climb between Biggar and Selkirk; The Wall of Talla. You crest the dam and ride alongside the reservoir with the whole thing in plain sight ahead. As soon as you turn the lefthander at the bottom there is no respite to the 20% gradient for over a kilometre. Where it maxes out at 25% I get off to walk…

Reaching the Gordon Arms I’m torn, their food is good and served quickly, I decide to carry on as progress is so fast and enjoyable on these friendly quiet roads that I know well. I stop for lunch in Selkirk and buy a bannock; 1kg of fruit and bread. Then I’m off skirting north of Kelso and after the turn at Duns into the home straight.

The Lammermuir hills present the final barrier. Away to the west rain streams from the clouds while here sunbeams arc across the sky. Climbing to 400m the wild open roads are alive with the call of skylark and plover; there is no traffic. The final drop towards the coast is the 8km descent of Redstone Rigg. Arthur’s Seat stands proudly on the horizon with the finish line within reach now.

Reaching the coast it’s busy with cars, buses and bikes; commuters are making there way home. A rider shouts and waves, he’s come out to meet me. Entering Holyrood Park it’s a circus of dog walkers, runners, climbers and club and leisure cyclists. I jump on the wheel of a peloton and ask where the parliament building is? “First exit…”I make the turn and outside Chris and Jack appear. Handshakes and hugs – I ring Sandra, but she knows already, I’ve finished.

10 hours 45mins 182km 1987m 17kph

Arrivee 7 days 9hours 44mins @1691km 22,563m

Postscript:

Of the 39 starters 22 finished in times ranging from just under 5 days to well over 13. Almost half of the field packed. Positions are irrelevant in these events, but for the record I was 10^th solo rider from 15 finishers. 3 pairs finished, and one split with one rider finishing solo. I’ve registered for the 2020 event and will be riding as a pair. Sincere thanks to Chris and Jack and the volunteers, together with Mandy and all of the other generous folk who helped me in no small way. And of course Sandra…

Arrivee Scottish Parliament Edinburgh

Non-credited images – Jack Driver

Steve Scott